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Did Fashion Week fly by for anyone else? The endless gazing at runway pictures, anticipation for the announcements of successors, and jealousy over those who got to sit front row are OVER. I will hold the peroration, but I think we were able to take away a good lesson from this year’s grouping: fashion is an ever-changing business, but nothing ever really goes out of style (Lucite, brocade, and military uniforms all made their way into the collections). Paris Fashion Week was no different, with a ton of shows veering towards the mid-to-late 20th century. I know last week I said I was excited for spring, but after seeing these fashions, I can’t wait for next fall! All images courtesy of Vogue.

1890’s-1910’s

Givenchy

  • The Inspiration: Victorian and turn-of-the-century equestrian costumes
  • The Runway: Riccardo Tisci played with silhouettes and gender-bending ensembles in a thunderous collection that was equal parts intense and feminine. Deep colors and strict fabrics melded together in a beautiful and unusual way, and the result was gorgeous.

Louis Vuitton

  • The Inspiration: A Downton Abbey-era fashionable aristocrat
  • The Runway: Long and lean silhouettes paired with exaggerated hats gave each model a haughty look that perfectly fit the tone of the show. The collection itself was completely wearable for the modern woman, as well as for the vintage-aficionado.

1960’s-1970’s

Rochas

  • The Inspiration: Mid-century urban sophistication and elegance
  • The Runway: These eras manifested themselves into the collection via pleats, knee-length dresses, and flared pants. The entire show was a study in opposites; both refined and opulent, awkward and exceedingly lovely.

Miu Miu

  • The Inspiration: The dandy-ish rockers of the 60’s and 70’s
  • The Runway: Between the purposeful mis-sizing and the forceful color palette, Miuccia evoked the time and style of the Sgt. Pepper era. Lush brocades, suede, and sequins completed this gorgeous knock-out of a collection.

Hermés

  • The Inspiration: The life of a late-70’s urban bohemian
  • The Runway: Gauchos, smoking scarves, and androgyny were all on the menu in a collection that went back in time. Jane Birkin was fittingly in the audience at the show that might as well have been in her honor; an ode to a woman who is beautiful yet tough.

1980’s

Balenciaga

  • The Inspiration: Edgy punk visions of the future set in the workplace
  • The Runway: Balenciaga is always a house firmly rooted in the future, but in a future more apropos to Blade Runner than to reality. Nevertheless, Nicholas Ghesquiére put forth a brilliant collection of corporate clothing with fantastical details like gold lamé, silk overalls, and fierce patchwork boots.

Jean Paul Gaultier

  • The Inspiration: The gritty underworld of the 1980’s
  • The Runway: JPG reverted back to some of his old classics, like trenches and corsets, but reinvented them in new ways and with new punches of design. Graffiti, leather, and motorcycles were all present in the collection that showed that some designers are masters of the craft.

Yves Saint Laurent

  • The Inspiration: An ode of love to the 1980’s, Stefano Pilati’s favorite decade
  • The Runway: For his last collection with YSL, Pilati took out all the stops and presented a collection of strong and clean lines, leather, chain mail, and a modernized version of the classic Le Smoking jacket. What a goodbye it was.